One of the great sensations of my life is over, but I can not do much more than tell you the fact tonight. I expected a great deal, but it was much finer than I had thought possible and the effect of the first act was simply overwhelming. Tomorrow we hear Taumhaeuser, on Wednesday Parsifal again, and on Saturday Tristan and Isolde, and I think I shall make an effort to hear the Parsifal again next Sunday.
I left London as I wrote you on Thursday night at 8 and got here last night at 11:30, coming by Cologne and Nuremberg. I had 4 hours to wait at Cologne Friday, but as unhappily, the boat had been late in getting into Antwerp, I only got to C. at 8 and the Cathedral was closed. The stop was a rest, however, and the journey to Nuremberg was not as bad as I had expected, although there was only a coupe, and I got nearly 4 hours sleep, which I needed very much as I have been sleeping badly in London lately and did not sleep on the boat even. Yesterday I saw Nuremberg for the first time and as I had from 4 until 8 there, I wandered about and made the acquaintance of St. Lorenz and St. Sebald and the Burg and Durer’s house and many of the old houses. I had expected to find it much more modernized than it is and consequently was very much delighted and want very much to see more of it as I hope to this week. This is one of the things I should like to do with you. It was superbly done tonight and it seems to me that it would be impossible for music to be finer.
A discussion about plans after a late breakfast and a walk to the telegraph office have consumed the morning and I am going to [illegible] this note rather than miss the mail. I must write a farewell letter to Alice and the boys too for the same steamer. I will send you the list in a day or two of the people we have heard. Thus much is decided. Today Taumhauser, tomorrow Parsifal again, Saturday, Tristan and Isolde and Sunday Parsifal again. Possibly I shall hear Taumhaeuser again on 13th Thursday, but am not sure whether I can stand so many. The party consists of Rob and Emily de Forest, Emma James and Mr. Howard Mansfield of N.Y., the one who has the very fine collection of etchings.
I feel already much better than in London and very much less rheumatic, but am still very tired. We are delightfully lodged in the house of the chief banker of the place, opposite the church and could not be more comfortable. I wish I could see just what you are doing at Bar Harbor. I hope you have found something more pleasant than the big Hotel. I am going to direct to - no I had better do as you say. My love to Mamie.